Christmas Eve day began with gifts received from a few students, including two who aren't even Christian. The day continued with wine (brought from Mae Sot when I first arrived here two months ago) and dinner at a tea shop, owned by one of my favorite people in Nupho.
I don't believe this tea shop owner ever stops smiling - and if he does, I've never seen it. Tonight when I walked by his shop, he was strumming his guitar and singing. He immediately stopped long enough to flash a big smile and ask "where are you going/coming from?" (as is typical in Burmese culture), before I waved goodbye and continued on here, to the internet shop. I truly wonder if he smiles when he sleeps too.
Christmas Day began with "Feliz Navidad" blaring from the Chin (an ethnic group in Burma) church next door (Zion Baptist church) at about 7am.
It continued with oatmeal (with cinnamon) and hot chocolate, sent by my colleague's mom; then lunch, shortly followed by a nap; then late lunch #1 at the Karen church at 4pm (pronounced Kah-rehn - another ethnic group in Burma and I believe the largest ethnic group residing as refugees in Thailand); closely followed by late lunch #2 at the Chin church at 5pm, and then Heinekens and pad thai shared with an Irish, a Dutch, and an American ex-pat for dinner at about 7pm.
Spending the whole day eating was pretty typical for Christmas, but I can't say that four plates of rice in four hours was typical for Christmas - or any other day.
Mainstreet, Nupoh
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Stories from Nupho
I am teaching my students how to write summaries and book reports in preparation for writing their own reports in a few weeks. One of their homework assignments was to write a short plot about their lives. They all chose an event or period of time in their lives and wrote a brief "plot" about it. Here are some of the events they shared with me this week:
One student had a baby last year, a daughter, who passed away when she was just about four months old. My student explained how sad she was after this event and how taking classes at ESC (the school where I teach) and learning English, along with the passage of time, has helped her to attempt to recover from this tragedy.
This student's husband explained how his father was arrested by the Burmese government in 1988 for participating in the student uprising (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8888_Uprising), where thousands of students were killed for opposing the government. His father spent over 18 years in jail. After his father's release, his father continued to be involved in the political movement against the government and was forced to leave Burma after his involvement in the Saffron Revolution in 2007 (http://uscampaignforburma.org/learn-about-burma/saffron-revolution). His father has been resettled to the United States.
Another student, a Buddhist monk, is Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn) and is from Karen state in Burma. Karen people have been the target of on-going ethnic violence by the Burmese government and its military for more than 25 years (http://www.tbbc.org/camps/history.htm) and the violence continues today (http://www.burmapartnership.org/2010/11/karen-villagers-still-fleeing-post-election-attacks-by-burmese-army/). My student wrote about how his village was attacked and burned when he was about 11 years old. His father was taken away by Burmese soldiers at that time. He is now 26 years old, he hasn't seen his father since that time, and believes that he is dead.
A fourth student wrote about how her father left her and her mother before she was a year old. Because of her father's abandonment, she told how her mother's life has been very hard. However, she explained how her life has been so easy because her mother has always put her needs first.
Other students wrote about an imagined future, a few writing about what life they hope to lead, if they are resettled to the United States. One of these students wrote that she hoped to be a Burmese teacher for Burmese children in the U.S. She explained that she doesn't think that the children will want to speak Burmese if they grow up in the U.S. So, she hopes that she may be able to encourage them to learn to not only speak Burmese, but to also read and write the language as well. She also plans to donate money to her church with her first paycheck, give to the poor, and also help orphans.
I have never taught in the U.S., so I don't know if it is typical for students to share such deeply personal information with a teacher, just for a homework assignment, particularly one they have only known a few months. However, I was really taken aback by the honesty of my students with this assignment. I felt really privileged to be entrusted with this information, as I am unsure if they were really conscious of the fact that what they were writing in their personal notebook would be shared outside of it. I wanted to share their stories with all of you though, because I felt that sometimes we all forget how privileged we are compared with many people in the world - and this definitely reminded me.
One student had a baby last year, a daughter, who passed away when she was just about four months old. My student explained how sad she was after this event and how taking classes at ESC (the school where I teach) and learning English, along with the passage of time, has helped her to attempt to recover from this tragedy.
This student's husband explained how his father was arrested by the Burmese government in 1988 for participating in the student uprising (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8888_Uprising), where thousands of students were killed for opposing the government. His father spent over 18 years in jail. After his father's release, his father continued to be involved in the political movement against the government and was forced to leave Burma after his involvement in the Saffron Revolution in 2007 (http://uscampaignforburma.org/learn-about-burma/saffron-revolution). His father has been resettled to the United States.
Another student, a Buddhist monk, is Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn) and is from Karen state in Burma. Karen people have been the target of on-going ethnic violence by the Burmese government and its military for more than 25 years (http://www.tbbc.org/camps/history.htm) and the violence continues today (http://www.burmapartnership.org/2010/11/karen-villagers-still-fleeing-post-election-attacks-by-burmese-army/). My student wrote about how his village was attacked and burned when he was about 11 years old. His father was taken away by Burmese soldiers at that time. He is now 26 years old, he hasn't seen his father since that time, and believes that he is dead.
A fourth student wrote about how her father left her and her mother before she was a year old. Because of her father's abandonment, she told how her mother's life has been very hard. However, she explained how her life has been so easy because her mother has always put her needs first.
Other students wrote about an imagined future, a few writing about what life they hope to lead, if they are resettled to the United States. One of these students wrote that she hoped to be a Burmese teacher for Burmese children in the U.S. She explained that she doesn't think that the children will want to speak Burmese if they grow up in the U.S. So, she hopes that she may be able to encourage them to learn to not only speak Burmese, but to also read and write the language as well. She also plans to donate money to her church with her first paycheck, give to the poor, and also help orphans.
I have never taught in the U.S., so I don't know if it is typical for students to share such deeply personal information with a teacher, just for a homework assignment, particularly one they have only known a few months. However, I was really taken aback by the honesty of my students with this assignment. I felt really privileged to be entrusted with this information, as I am unsure if they were really conscious of the fact that what they were writing in their personal notebook would be shared outside of it. I wanted to share their stories with all of you though, because I felt that sometimes we all forget how privileged we are compared with many people in the world - and this definitely reminded me.
Many of my students are single young men, here in Nupho without a family to support them and no way to earn a steady income. They are forbidden from working by the Thai government and so are limited to odd jobs they can secure from time to time. While in most contexts single, young, educated men in their twenties would have many advantages, including a generally higher education level than their female counterparts in the job market and more disposable income than older men with families to support; in Nupho, they are at a disadvantage.
These young men actually seem to be one of the most vulnerable groups here, as their rations are smaller and they are forced to share already cramped quarters with other single male friends. Additionally, they lack the family support that is so central in Burmese culture. Unfortunately, many of them become depressed, having no work or family to keep them busy, and they often spend too much time drinking as a result. They have so much potential, but being on their own makes it hard to remain positive about their futures.
Despite the challenges they face, my students seem to be on the right track for the most part, even though I do worry about their futures if they are forced to languish too long in a refugee camp. One of them was out of class last week, after finding some temporary work in a nearby town. He told me that he hadn't read any further in the book assigned for class since I had left for my visa run two weeks earlier. Then after a discussion of the book in class, I come to find out that had just "skimmed" the last 100+ pages while I was away. So, not only had he kept up with the reading for class, he had finished the book three weeks ahead of everyone else. He said "skimming" it didn't count.
These young men actually seem to be one of the most vulnerable groups here, as their rations are smaller and they are forced to share already cramped quarters with other single male friends. Additionally, they lack the family support that is so central in Burmese culture. Unfortunately, many of them become depressed, having no work or family to keep them busy, and they often spend too much time drinking as a result. They have so much potential, but being on their own makes it hard to remain positive about their futures.
Despite the challenges they face, my students seem to be on the right track for the most part, even though I do worry about their futures if they are forced to languish too long in a refugee camp. One of them was out of class last week, after finding some temporary work in a nearby town. He told me that he hadn't read any further in the book assigned for class since I had left for my visa run two weeks earlier. Then after a discussion of the book in class, I come to find out that had just "skimmed" the last 100+ pages while I was away. So, not only had he kept up with the reading for class, he had finished the book three weeks ahead of everyone else. He said "skimming" it didn't count.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Things to know about Nupho...
The residents of Nupho - of all ages - are huge fans of Celine Dion, Justin Bieber, Scorpion, the Eagles (every Burmese boy with a guitar can play "Hotel California"), Boy bands, all things Korean (i.e. movies, soap operas and boy bands), horrid Burmese soap operas, Avril LaVigne, and life-sized posters of puppies and babies to decorate their homes.
You will often see men here taking care of their children, at least the ones under five. In Mali/Tanzania, it was rare to see a man holding a child, never mind traveling with one on his own. However, it is common to see men carrying, traveling with, and being generally affectionate with their children.
It is customary to remove your shoes before entering anyone's house. It is also customary in offices, at school, and often in many shops as well. It is disrespectful to ignore this custom.
I teach my classes barefoot.
People use umbrellas more often to protect themselves from the sun than from the rain.
If you invite your students to lunch, breakfast, or even just for tea, they will inevitably insist on paying for you, despite the fact that you invited them. Being crippled by a lack of understanding of the language doesn't help when attempting to ensure that the tea shop owner will take your money, instead of theirs.
Anything but Burmese traditional music is copied from someone, somewhere. Currently, I am listening to the World Cup song made famous by Shakira being sung in Burmese. Surely they don't have a copyright for that...
You cannot be Burmese without loving tea leaf salad (http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSJAF3DYJp4xYpp55fznJ9v7dc0GJgGowZGyV4ut5HnIl3RsGsPbw)
They chew beetel nut and still manage to procreate - (http://www.yachtaragorn.com/photos/Gallery/SumbaBetelNutManAndKids.jpg) - the beetel nut: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Areca_nut).
All of their "coffee" is in packets and consists of 40-60% sugar and less than 10% coffee.
If you order tea, a quarter of your cup with consist of sugary condensed milk.
None of the residents of Nupho understand how you cannot eat copious amounts of rice at EVERY meal.
They all love Aung San Suu Kyi.
They pronounce "Kyi" like the letter "G." Apparently, when the British transcribed the language into our alphabet that sound got lost in translation.
They are former photo-journalists, farmers, tour guides, truck drivers, teachers, government workers, etc...
They love their country and their culture, but none that I have talked to plan to return to Burma.
It is rarely quiet - pigs squeal; the church band plays - at concert level volume, especially when it is just a practice session; 5+ rooms of 40+ students scream their lessons, in unison, at the top of their lungs, from the school next door; monasteries are blasting prayers at any and all points during the day; children squeal; drunk men gather after their one beer puts them in a stupor (Burmese men cannot hold their liquor); someone is seemingly always testing a microphone, saying approximately 20+ times (in English) "hello? hello. hello! hello, hello, hello,"; the cat whines, though not often and not loudly - but still...; radios, videos, and REALLY bad kareoke cannot be listened to at anything but full volume; guitars everywhere, and they aren't afraid to play them - or even a mandolin.
Prayer call from the mosque is the quietest thing in Nupho, except for my students when they are asked to speak or read aloud in class. They speak at inaudible levels, except maybe when I make them stand at the front of the room and speak or read aloud. Then they are wicked excited and speak at a level slightly louder than a mute.
Phone conversations overheard at the internet shop can almost entirely consist of the word "ok" repeated over and over and over and over again, in a rushed manner that indicates they are about to hang-up, but go on for 20+ minutes..."ok, ok, ok, ok.ok? ok! ok! ok, ok, ok....ok....ok, ok....ok" - 20 minutes later (click).
You will often see men here taking care of their children, at least the ones under five. In Mali/Tanzania, it was rare to see a man holding a child, never mind traveling with one on his own. However, it is common to see men carrying, traveling with, and being generally affectionate with their children.
It is customary to remove your shoes before entering anyone's house. It is also customary in offices, at school, and often in many shops as well. It is disrespectful to ignore this custom.
I teach my classes barefoot.
People use umbrellas more often to protect themselves from the sun than from the rain.
If you invite your students to lunch, breakfast, or even just for tea, they will inevitably insist on paying for you, despite the fact that you invited them. Being crippled by a lack of understanding of the language doesn't help when attempting to ensure that the tea shop owner will take your money, instead of theirs.
Anything but Burmese traditional music is copied from someone, somewhere. Currently, I am listening to the World Cup song made famous by Shakira being sung in Burmese. Surely they don't have a copyright for that...
You cannot be Burmese without loving tea leaf salad (http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSJAF3DYJp4xYpp55fznJ9v7dc0GJgGowZGyV4ut5HnIl3RsGsPbw)
They chew beetel nut and still manage to procreate - (http://www.yachtaragorn.com/photos/Gallery/SumbaBetelNutManAndKids.jpg) - the beetel nut: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Areca_nut).
All of their "coffee" is in packets and consists of 40-60% sugar and less than 10% coffee.
If you order tea, a quarter of your cup with consist of sugary condensed milk.
None of the residents of Nupho understand how you cannot eat copious amounts of rice at EVERY meal.
They all love Aung San Suu Kyi.
They pronounce "Kyi" like the letter "G." Apparently, when the British transcribed the language into our alphabet that sound got lost in translation.
They are former photo-journalists, farmers, tour guides, truck drivers, teachers, government workers, etc...
They love their country and their culture, but none that I have talked to plan to return to Burma.
It is rarely quiet - pigs squeal; the church band plays - at concert level volume, especially when it is just a practice session; 5+ rooms of 40+ students scream their lessons, in unison, at the top of their lungs, from the school next door; monasteries are blasting prayers at any and all points during the day; children squeal; drunk men gather after their one beer puts them in a stupor (Burmese men cannot hold their liquor); someone is seemingly always testing a microphone, saying approximately 20+ times (in English) "hello? hello. hello! hello, hello, hello,"; the cat whines, though not often and not loudly - but still...; radios, videos, and REALLY bad kareoke cannot be listened to at anything but full volume; guitars everywhere, and they aren't afraid to play them - or even a mandolin.
Prayer call from the mosque is the quietest thing in Nupho, except for my students when they are asked to speak or read aloud in class. They speak at inaudible levels, except maybe when I make them stand at the front of the room and speak or read aloud. Then they are wicked excited and speak at a level slightly louder than a mute.
Phone conversations overheard at the internet shop can almost entirely consist of the word "ok" repeated over and over and over and over again, in a rushed manner that indicates they are about to hang-up, but go on for 20+ minutes..."ok, ok, ok, ok.ok? ok! ok! ok, ok, ok....ok....ok, ok....ok" - 20 minutes later (click).
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
A new school session and a new addition
So, our latest school session has begun and the students seem to be happy to be back, except when it comes to homework and quizzes - much like most American students feel everyday, I am sure. I found enough copies of an easy reader version of Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet" that I used in my Intermediate class today. They seemed to enjoy playing the parts and I am determined to get at least some of them to be less shy about speaking in front of others - and maybe even get them to shout every once in a while! My Burmese students are very humble and shy and when asked to read aloud, most speak in a voice barely audible to anyone, including themselves.
In other ESC (English Speaking Course - the school where I am teaching) news, we have finally gotten a cat to help to keep out the mice, or at least capture and kill them should they decide to pay us a visit. The cat doesn't seem to know what to do, or where to go though. He seems to enjoy the safety and comfort of a box previously used for computer paper, hiding under a cabinet in one of the bedrooms, or hiding out elsewhere in the school. He manages to purr and cry at the same time and we wonder if he might be a bit bipolar, not seeming to know if he is happy or sad and often seeming to be a bit of both at the same time. We aren't sure that he will actually ever capture any mice, but hopefully his mere presence, particularly his scent, will help to keep the mice from stopping by at all.
Since I originally wrote this post my Intermediate class finished "Romeo and Juliet" and loved it so much that they asked to perform an act of the play for other students at the school. They were so nervous and excited, it reminded me of how much fun I had doing plays in high school. They can't wait to read another play and will maybe perform the whole thing next time.
As for the cat, he has decided to stay and finally gotten out of the box. He has even started to follow us a bit like a dog would, which may be why I like him so much. I am not a lover of cats. Truthfully, I don't like them much at all. This cat is an exception though, particularly because he was keeping the mice away, for a while at least. We have to feed him a bit less fish, I think. We named him "Jah-lay" ("little tiger" in Burmese) and he is now a permanent fixture at the school, even joining me for class from time to time.
In other ESC (English Speaking Course - the school where I am teaching) news, we have finally gotten a cat to help to keep out the mice, or at least capture and kill them should they decide to pay us a visit. The cat doesn't seem to know what to do, or where to go though. He seems to enjoy the safety and comfort of a box previously used for computer paper, hiding under a cabinet in one of the bedrooms, or hiding out elsewhere in the school. He manages to purr and cry at the same time and we wonder if he might be a bit bipolar, not seeming to know if he is happy or sad and often seeming to be a bit of both at the same time. We aren't sure that he will actually ever capture any mice, but hopefully his mere presence, particularly his scent, will help to keep the mice from stopping by at all.
Since I originally wrote this post my Intermediate class finished "Romeo and Juliet" and loved it so much that they asked to perform an act of the play for other students at the school. They were so nervous and excited, it reminded me of how much fun I had doing plays in high school. They can't wait to read another play and will maybe perform the whole thing next time.
As for the cat, he has decided to stay and finally gotten out of the box. He has even started to follow us a bit like a dog would, which may be why I like him so much. I am not a lover of cats. Truthfully, I don't like them much at all. This cat is an exception though, particularly because he was keeping the mice away, for a while at least. We have to feed him a bit less fish, I think. We named him "Jah-lay" ("little tiger" in Burmese) and he is now a permanent fixture at the school, even joining me for class from time to time.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
A Day in the Life...
Waking up by about 6AM every day (even weekends), I am generally able to play a little Badminton to start off my day, then often I have breakfast on my own, taken at a local tea shop/restaurant. Breakfast is usually some mohinga (noodles in a sauce with green beans, cilantro, crispy soy, onion, and some other ingredients that I have yet to figure out!) or coconut noodles.
Some days I am looking for something sweet, like roti (fried bread with sweet condensed milk and sugar), but in any case, breakfast is always accompanied by some green tea (though it is usually pale brown in color, with a light flavor) or Burmese tea (http://www.thenatureactive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/myanmar-tea-cup.jpg), which is a dark, strong tea usually accompanied by sweet condensed milk and sugar.
Thankfully, I have finally learned (just today) how to ask in Burmese for tea with only evaporated milk and no sugar, so that I can attempt to cut down on my sugar and fat intake. Attempting to exclude sugar and fat here to any degree is a challenge, but most people think that it is particularly strange to drink Burmese tea without both the sweet condensed milk AND sugar - sickeningly sweet in most cases.
Before school started up again, I spent many mornings at the internet shop checking my email and seeing what all of you were up to on Facebook. I have recently been lucky enough to stream NPR news as well, which has been so nice - and something that I really missed while I was in Tanzania.
Now that school has begun again though, I usually can't check email until late morning, or after lunch, because of my 9AM class. Though I will say that having only 2-3 hours in front of the computer a day - or less - has been a welcome change.
If I am not at the internet shop in the late morning, I am grading homework, preparing for class or the weekly quiz for my classes. Lunch is at about 11:30AM or noon. I am so fortunate that a family that my colleague knows from her work with resettled Burmese refugees in Arizona has relatives here who have taken charge of our daily lunches and dinners. They are fabulous cooks and I generally look forward to a variety of delicious Burmese food every day. Vegetables are actually a part of the Burmese diet, which is another welcome change from the carb-laden food available in Tanzania.
Lunch, and sometimes dinner, is also sometimes an impromptu Burmese lesson as the mother speaks no English and her daughter only a bit. Some days are easy, but others are a struggle to understand both meaning and context of questions and answers about the U.S., Burma, or just life in Nupoh.
After lunch is usually spent preparing for class and then showering before my students arrive about 2:45pm for my first afternoon class. Occasionally, this time also includes a 30 minute nap, depending on the heat and how much food my 'host mom' has managed to convince me to eat at lunch.
The afternoon is class time, which ends at 5:30pm. If I haven't visited the internet shop that day, then I may pass by there at this time. Otherwise, I will correct homework or lesson plan for the next day before dinner at about 6:30pm or 7pm.
My other free time in Nupho may be spent having a meal hosted by a student's family or taking walks around the camp visiting students or others that I have met here. Most free time is spent in tea shops though, chatting about what is happening in Nupho, about Burmese or U.S. culture or politics, or maybe commenting on the random American wrestling match on TV in the shop.
All in all, it is a pretty "quiet" life here. Though with animals making noise at all hours; the various places of worship chanting, singing, or calling people to prayer at almost every hour of the day; or just groups of children playing (never quietly) throughout the camp, it is never actually "quiet" in Nupho.
Some days I am looking for something sweet, like roti (fried bread with sweet condensed milk and sugar), but in any case, breakfast is always accompanied by some green tea (though it is usually pale brown in color, with a light flavor) or Burmese tea (http://www.thenatureactive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/myanmar-tea-cup.jpg), which is a dark, strong tea usually accompanied by sweet condensed milk and sugar.
Thankfully, I have finally learned (just today) how to ask in Burmese for tea with only evaporated milk and no sugar, so that I can attempt to cut down on my sugar and fat intake. Attempting to exclude sugar and fat here to any degree is a challenge, but most people think that it is particularly strange to drink Burmese tea without both the sweet condensed milk AND sugar - sickeningly sweet in most cases.
Before school started up again, I spent many mornings at the internet shop checking my email and seeing what all of you were up to on Facebook. I have recently been lucky enough to stream NPR news as well, which has been so nice - and something that I really missed while I was in Tanzania.
Now that school has begun again though, I usually can't check email until late morning, or after lunch, because of my 9AM class. Though I will say that having only 2-3 hours in front of the computer a day - or less - has been a welcome change.
If I am not at the internet shop in the late morning, I am grading homework, preparing for class or the weekly quiz for my classes. Lunch is at about 11:30AM or noon. I am so fortunate that a family that my colleague knows from her work with resettled Burmese refugees in Arizona has relatives here who have taken charge of our daily lunches and dinners. They are fabulous cooks and I generally look forward to a variety of delicious Burmese food every day. Vegetables are actually a part of the Burmese diet, which is another welcome change from the carb-laden food available in Tanzania.
Lunch, and sometimes dinner, is also sometimes an impromptu Burmese lesson as the mother speaks no English and her daughter only a bit. Some days are easy, but others are a struggle to understand both meaning and context of questions and answers about the U.S., Burma, or just life in Nupoh.
After lunch is usually spent preparing for class and then showering before my students arrive about 2:45pm for my first afternoon class. Occasionally, this time also includes a 30 minute nap, depending on the heat and how much food my 'host mom' has managed to convince me to eat at lunch.
The afternoon is class time, which ends at 5:30pm. If I haven't visited the internet shop that day, then I may pass by there at this time. Otherwise, I will correct homework or lesson plan for the next day before dinner at about 6:30pm or 7pm.
My other free time in Nupho may be spent having a meal hosted by a student's family or taking walks around the camp visiting students or others that I have met here. Most free time is spent in tea shops though, chatting about what is happening in Nupho, about Burmese or U.S. culture or politics, or maybe commenting on the random American wrestling match on TV in the shop.
All in all, it is a pretty "quiet" life here. Though with animals making noise at all hours; the various places of worship chanting, singing, or calling people to prayer at almost every hour of the day; or just groups of children playing (never quietly) throughout the camp, it is never actually "quiet" in Nupho.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Burmese Birthday Party
So, this week started out with an invitation to a birthday party for the younger sister, who was turning 12 years old, of one of my students.
It was at 8am on a Wednesday morning.
Apparently, the Burmese do not have the same time-line for celebrations as people in the West.
There were also about 200 people invited to their two-room bamboo house for breakfast, also unbelievable, but they made it work. Breakfast looks more like lunch in the U.S., spicy noodles with some meat, in sauce. They also had some fruit and pieces of pound cake on the side. People came in shifts, sitting down long enough to eat the large amounts of food being served, have some fruit and other treats offered, and then exiting soon after to continue on with their day.
Unlike a typical birthday party for a 12 year old, the birthday girl was part of the service squad, refilling drinks and bowls of "mohinga" (traditional Burmese breakfast of noodles, some fish, cilantro, and spices) as the guests came and went from the house throughout the morning.
The rest of the party was pretty traditional, with the birthday girl dressed in a party dress, a pretty barrette in her hair, and a birthday cake - though I am not sure if there was any singing and I didn't see any candles.
It was at 8am on a Wednesday morning.
Apparently, the Burmese do not have the same time-line for celebrations as people in the West.
There were also about 200 people invited to their two-room bamboo house for breakfast, also unbelievable, but they made it work. Breakfast looks more like lunch in the U.S., spicy noodles with some meat, in sauce. They also had some fruit and pieces of pound cake on the side. People came in shifts, sitting down long enough to eat the large amounts of food being served, have some fruit and other treats offered, and then exiting soon after to continue on with their day.
Unlike a typical birthday party for a 12 year old, the birthday girl was part of the service squad, refilling drinks and bowls of "mohinga" (traditional Burmese breakfast of noodles, some fish, cilantro, and spices) as the guests came and went from the house throughout the morning.
The rest of the party was pretty traditional, with the birthday girl dressed in a party dress, a pretty barrette in her hair, and a birthday cake - though I am not sure if there was any singing and I didn't see any candles.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
AUNG SAN SUU KYI'S RELEASE
Burmese human rights' leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, was released from house arrest last night about 5:15pm, local time in Burma (Myanmar). http://www.straitstimes.com/BreakingNews/SEAsia/Story/STIStory_603142.html Just after the announcement last night, life seemed to go on here in Nupoh, for the most part. Though there were a few colleagues, students, and other residents who were listening intently to news reports and/or drinking in celebration of the news, most people were going on about their business - eating dinner, playing chess, chatting with friends, or choosing a DVD.
She is scheduled to give a speech to her supporters today at 12pm, local time (12:30AM east coast time).
She is scheduled to give a speech to her supporters today at 12pm, local time (12:30AM east coast time).
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Elections and Nupoh
ELECTIONS IN BURMA
So again I find myself writing all of you late! In my defense, I did have a really quick trip to Mae Sot last weekend that included about 14 hours of travel for a 36 hour stay there. I left just as a reported 20,000 refugees streamed into Mae Sot in the wake of Sunday's elections http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20005. There were clashes between the Burmese army and DKBA (Democratic Karen Buddhist Army), the army of the minority Karen (Kah-rehn) ethnic group.
It seems that most refugees seeking a safe haven in Thailand after the elections on Sunday have returned home http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v5/newsindex.php?id=542337, but questions remain if they will be back. The Burmese government (officially named "Myanmar" by the present military-backed government) claimed an overwhelming victory in the election, saying they had gained approximately 80% of the vote. However, the election was marred by accusations of fraud and coercion, from inside an outside Burma - http://www.todayonline.com/World/EDC101110-0000105/Junta-backed-party-sweeps-Myanmar-election.
More Burma news: http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jp0h9ZI64WoLeW8l5etpeBhN2Y2Q?docId=dfe02e9c36994341bf9e141b48335f35
http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20049
IN A LAND FAR, FAR AWAY....
As for me, I am far away from the conflict, about 7 hours or so south of Mae Sot in the peaceful village of Nupoh. The residents here are preparing for a full moon festival, creating human-sized puppets in paper mache' style. My colleague and I are preparing lesson plans for our classes beginning on Monday and hope to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner with our students on the 25th as well.
The weather has been really great, not quite as cold as some of my first nights here - and not too hot either so far. I can't seem to keep totally clean though. There is dust constantly filling the air, and in the last week or so there has been foul-smelling smoke from the brush being burned for fertilizer by many farmers consistently wafting into our classrooms (and bedrooms) every day and night. It seems that they are taking turns burning so that our noses are rarely given a break from it.
AUNG SAN SUU KYI
Residents are also anxiously awaiting word of Burmese human rights' leader Aung San Suu Kyi's release from house arrest. Her release is supposed to take place today and rumors are swirling as to what is happening and if the ruling junta will actually go through with the release. The latest report as of this posting: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/home/Aung-San-Suu-Kyi-set-for-evening-release-30142181.html
Info on the life of Aung San Suu Kyi: http://nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1991/kyi-bio.html
I have come to Thailand to work with the Burmese at an interesting time in the country's and people's history. I just hope that even a small change will be a positive one for them.
So again I find myself writing all of you late! In my defense, I did have a really quick trip to Mae Sot last weekend that included about 14 hours of travel for a 36 hour stay there. I left just as a reported 20,000 refugees streamed into Mae Sot in the wake of Sunday's elections http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20005. There were clashes between the Burmese army and DKBA (Democratic Karen Buddhist Army), the army of the minority Karen (Kah-rehn) ethnic group.
It seems that most refugees seeking a safe haven in Thailand after the elections on Sunday have returned home http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v5/newsindex.php?id=542337, but questions remain if they will be back. The Burmese government (officially named "Myanmar" by the present military-backed government) claimed an overwhelming victory in the election, saying they had gained approximately 80% of the vote. However, the election was marred by accusations of fraud and coercion, from inside an outside Burma - http://www.todayonline.com/World/EDC101110-0000105/Junta-backed-party-sweeps-Myanmar-election.
More Burma news: http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jp0h9ZI64WoLeW8l5etpeBhN2Y2Q?docId=dfe02e9c36994341bf9e141b48335f35
http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20049
IN A LAND FAR, FAR AWAY....
As for me, I am far away from the conflict, about 7 hours or so south of Mae Sot in the peaceful village of Nupoh. The residents here are preparing for a full moon festival, creating human-sized puppets in paper mache' style. My colleague and I are preparing lesson plans for our classes beginning on Monday and hope to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner with our students on the 25th as well.
The weather has been really great, not quite as cold as some of my first nights here - and not too hot either so far. I can't seem to keep totally clean though. There is dust constantly filling the air, and in the last week or so there has been foul-smelling smoke from the brush being burned for fertilizer by many farmers consistently wafting into our classrooms (and bedrooms) every day and night. It seems that they are taking turns burning so that our noses are rarely given a break from it.
AUNG SAN SUU KYI
Residents are also anxiously awaiting word of Burmese human rights' leader Aung San Suu Kyi's release from house arrest. Her release is supposed to take place today and rumors are swirling as to what is happening and if the ruling junta will actually go through with the release. The latest report as of this posting: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/home/Aung-San-Suu-Kyi-set-for-evening-release-30142181.html
Info on the life of Aung San Suu Kyi: http://nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1991/kyi-bio.html
I have come to Thailand to work with the Burmese at an interesting time in the country's and people's history. I just hope that even a small change will be a positive one for them.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
First week in Nupoh
So, I have finished my first week in Nupoh camp, several hours south of Mae Sot, and can't believe that I have been in Thailand three weeks already. Nupoh is a refugee camp, where I will be teaching English to Burmese asylum seekers and refugees until mid-January. It is an adorable little village, very safe and very peaceful. I had thought that my last post was just a week ago, but then I realized that it is already October 31st (thanks for the reminder Glynn!). Sorry for the delay, but it has been a busy few weeks.
Orientation began on October 18th and I left for Nupoh on the 23rd, arriving just in time for the festival of lights (http://www.dpsmap.com/festival/october.htm) in the camp. It was a lovely celebration, that lit up the night with colored lampshades, in varying sizes and shapes, and rows of candles along various pathways in the camp.
The Burmese people here have welcomed me with open arms and have already taught me so much about the culture and history of Burma (now officially called "Myanmar" by the government there). I am trying to learn some of the Burmese language as well, but it is rather difficult when so many people here speak English so well - and those that don't are anxious to learn it.
The houses here are made of dried bamboo, with squat toilets and bucket showers. It is like a mini Peace Corps experience, only there is electricity (sometimes) and internet access - something that was barely invented when I arrived in Mali in 1999. I do have a cell phone this time around as well, though there is no cell service in the camp. Luckily there are many internet shops in Nupoh, and the access is pretty fast considering the remoteness of the village. It is not as convenient as having internet in my room, but having it at all is quite a luxury, considering the circumstances.
Burma, like many other countries outside the U.S., is composed of people of varying ethnic backgrounds who speak a variety of local languages (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Burma). Burmese (Bamar people, who are the majority) is the main language of Burma, but many other languages are spoken among the people there as well. Natives of Burma are generally called Burmese, but the term "Burmese" in the camp generally refers to Burmese speaking people, not the minority ethnic groups, which include Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn), Karenni, Chin, Shin, Mon, and others. These groups speak local languages, generally not spoken by the larger Burmese majority, though many of these groups also speak Burmese.
Nupoh camp is mainly composed of Karen (pronounced Keh-rehn) people (http://www.friendsofthekaren.org/), with some Bamar (or Burmese people), Chin, Mon, and others comprising a small minority in the camp. I am teaching English at a school in the minority Burmese section of the camp, where the main religion is Buddhism. The majority of the Karen people in the camp are Christian, predominantly Baptist.
My students range in age from about 13 years to around 50 years old. It is an interesting mix of age levels, ethnic backgrounds, and English language abilities. My students, colleagues, and others in the village are teaching me more than I could ever teach them - and I am trying to learn all that I can during my short stay in Nupoh.
Orientation began on October 18th and I left for Nupoh on the 23rd, arriving just in time for the festival of lights (http://www.dpsmap.com/festival/october.htm) in the camp. It was a lovely celebration, that lit up the night with colored lampshades, in varying sizes and shapes, and rows of candles along various pathways in the camp.
The Burmese people here have welcomed me with open arms and have already taught me so much about the culture and history of Burma (now officially called "Myanmar" by the government there). I am trying to learn some of the Burmese language as well, but it is rather difficult when so many people here speak English so well - and those that don't are anxious to learn it.
The houses here are made of dried bamboo, with squat toilets and bucket showers. It is like a mini Peace Corps experience, only there is electricity (sometimes) and internet access - something that was barely invented when I arrived in Mali in 1999. I do have a cell phone this time around as well, though there is no cell service in the camp. Luckily there are many internet shops in Nupoh, and the access is pretty fast considering the remoteness of the village. It is not as convenient as having internet in my room, but having it at all is quite a luxury, considering the circumstances.
Burma, like many other countries outside the U.S., is composed of people of varying ethnic backgrounds who speak a variety of local languages (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Burma). Burmese (Bamar people, who are the majority) is the main language of Burma, but many other languages are spoken among the people there as well. Natives of Burma are generally called Burmese, but the term "Burmese" in the camp generally refers to Burmese speaking people, not the minority ethnic groups, which include Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn), Karenni, Chin, Shin, Mon, and others. These groups speak local languages, generally not spoken by the larger Burmese majority, though many of these groups also speak Burmese.
Nupoh camp is mainly composed of Karen (pronounced Keh-rehn) people (http://www.friendsofthekaren.org/), with some Bamar (or Burmese people), Chin, Mon, and others comprising a small minority in the camp. I am teaching English at a school in the minority Burmese section of the camp, where the main religion is Buddhism. The majority of the Karen people in the camp are Christian, predominantly Baptist.
My students range in age from about 13 years to around 50 years old. It is an interesting mix of age levels, ethnic backgrounds, and English language abilities. My students, colleagues, and others in the village are teaching me more than I could ever teach them - and I am trying to learn all that I can during my short stay in Nupoh.
Monday, October 18, 2010
On the road again
I arrived in Mae Sot from Chiang Mai last night and began orientation with BVP (Burma Volunteer Program) this morning. The journey to orientation from my guest house included a wobbly bike, rain, and riding on the left side of the road. I feel thankful to be alive.
Though truthfully the ride itself was uneventful, tomorrow is another day that will include a wobbly bike, most likely rain, and definitely riding on the left side of the road. Did I mention the rotary?
There was a chocolate coconut waffle for breakfast, at least. I would have provided a photo, but I had eaten it far too quickly to have had time to think about documenting the deliciousness before it was gone. Even after I had enjoyed it, I was further tempted (or tortured, if you prefer) by the amazing smell of other waffles being prepared as I waited for the program manager and other volunteers to arrive at the designated meeting spot.
My assignment with BVP will lead me on another journey this weekend, south to Nu Po. This is where the real adventure will begin in Thailand. The rest was just a warm-up.
Though truthfully the ride itself was uneventful, tomorrow is another day that will include a wobbly bike, most likely rain, and definitely riding on the left side of the road. Did I mention the rotary?
There was a chocolate coconut waffle for breakfast, at least. I would have provided a photo, but I had eaten it far too quickly to have had time to think about documenting the deliciousness before it was gone. Even after I had enjoyed it, I was further tempted (or tortured, if you prefer) by the amazing smell of other waffles being prepared as I waited for the program manager and other volunteers to arrive at the designated meeting spot.
My assignment with BVP will lead me on another journey this weekend, south to Nu Po. This is where the real adventure will begin in Thailand. The rest was just a warm-up.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Eating well
I love a country that loves its food, especially when I love it too. Though I suppose that is what makes food enjoyable - because the people making it love it so much that they take the time, put in the effort, and use some creativity to make it worth everyone's while?
Everyone had told me how much I would enjoy Thai cuisine, but I was afraid that after all the hype - I was bound to be disappointed. I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only are the textures and flavors fabulous, but the presentation can be a work of art - as you can see from the photos below.
After thoroughly enjoying every meal, I wonder if I will ever be truly disappointed with a Thai meal? The best part? Because my mouth is so overwhelmingly happy, my stomach is too. There is no need for third or fourth helpings (though seconds are always a must) in order to make up for the lack of interest in the food by my mouth. Hallelujah.
The culinary adventures continue...
Everyone had told me how much I would enjoy Thai cuisine, but I was afraid that after all the hype - I was bound to be disappointed. I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only are the textures and flavors fabulous, but the presentation can be a work of art - as you can see from the photos below.
After thoroughly enjoying every meal, I wonder if I will ever be truly disappointed with a Thai meal? The best part? Because my mouth is so overwhelmingly happy, my stomach is too. There is no need for third or fourth helpings (though seconds are always a must) in order to make up for the lack of interest in the food by my mouth. Hallelujah.
The culinary adventures continue...
Monday, October 11, 2010
Back to the Future
I arrived yesterday in Bangkok, after heading west from New York, finding myself 11 hours into the future. During a stopover in Hong Kong, I had my first incredible view of Asia. The weather was overcast, obscuring the tops of the deep green hills surrounding the airport. As we were touching down, I couldn't believe that I could actually see the enormous statue of Buddha that friends had previously captured in pictures and sent to me during their various trips to Hong Kong over the past year - http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/outlying-giant-buddha.html. There he was, perched on the top of this mountain, slightly veiled by a mist floating around him. Asia could not have planned a better welcome for me.
In Bangkok, I was greeted by a familiar face, a friend from law school here coincidentally volunteering for the same organization that I volunteered with in Tanzania. After the 20+ hour journey, I could not have been more happy to see Sandra waving at me from across the terminal. We headed out of the airport on the public transit system. THERE IS A PUBLIC TRANSIT SYSTEM. This is the first of many things that will amaze me about Asia, as compared with Africa, I am sure.
I ended the night with a great traditional Thai salad, from a street vendor on the side of the road in Bangkok. We watched the cars zooming by, people going about their business - including a vegetable seller advertising his wares via megaphone - from a truck parked behind us, and lazy dogs looking well-fed, but always hungry for more, passing on the street.
In Bangkok, I was greeted by a familiar face, a friend from law school here coincidentally volunteering for the same organization that I volunteered with in Tanzania. After the 20+ hour journey, I could not have been more happy to see Sandra waving at me from across the terminal. We headed out of the airport on the public transit system. THERE IS A PUBLIC TRANSIT SYSTEM. This is the first of many things that will amaze me about Asia, as compared with Africa, I am sure.
I ended the night with a great traditional Thai salad, from a street vendor on the side of the road in Bangkok. We watched the cars zooming by, people going about their business - including a vegetable seller advertising his wares via megaphone - from a truck parked behind us, and lazy dogs looking well-fed, but always hungry for more, passing on the street.
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