First week in Nupoh

So, I have finished my first week in Nupoh camp, several hours south of Mae Sot, and can't believe that I have been in Thailand three weeks already. Nupoh is a refugee camp, where I will be teaching English to Burmese asylum seekers and refugees until mid-January. It is an adorable little village, very safe and very peaceful. I had thought that my last post was just a week ago, but then I realized that it is already October 31st (thanks for the reminder Glynn!). Sorry for the delay, but it has been a busy few weeks.

Orientation began on October 18th and I left for Nupoh on the 23rd, arriving just in time for the festival of lights (http://www.dpsmap.com/festival/october.htm) in the camp. It was a lovely celebration, that lit up the night with colored lampshades, in varying sizes and shapes, and rows of candles along various pathways in the camp. 

The Burmese people here have welcomed me with open arms and have already taught me so much about the culture and history of Burma (now officially called "Myanmar" by the government there). I am trying to learn some of the Burmese language as well, but it is rather difficult when so many people here speak English so well - and those that don't are anxious to learn it.

The houses here are made of dried bamboo, with squat toilets and bucket showers. It is like a mini Peace Corps experience, only there is electricity (sometimes) and internet access - something that was barely invented when I arrived in Mali in 1999. I do have a cell phone this time around as well, though there is no cell service in the camp. Luckily there are many internet shops in Nupoh, and the access is pretty fast considering the remoteness of the village. It is not as convenient as having internet in my room, but having it at all is quite a luxury, considering the circumstances.


Burma, like many other countries outside the U.S., is composed of people of varying ethnic backgrounds who speak a variety of local languages (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Burma). Burmese (Bamar people, who are the majority) is the main language of Burma, but many other languages are spoken among the people there as well. Natives of Burma are generally called Burmese, but the term "Burmese" in the camp generally refers to Burmese speaking people, not the minority ethnic groups, which include Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn), Karenni, Chin, Shin, Mon, and others. These groups speak local languages, generally not spoken by the larger Burmese majority, though many of these groups also speak Burmese.

Nupoh camp is mainly composed of Karen (pronounced Keh-rehn) people (http://www.friendsofthekaren.org/), with some Bamar (or Burmese people), Chin, Mon, and others comprising a small minority in the camp. I am teaching English at a school in the minority Burmese section of the camp, where the main religion is Buddhism. The majority of the Karen people in the camp are Christian, predominantly Baptist.

My students range in age from about 13 years to around 50 years old. It is an interesting mix of age levels, ethnic backgrounds, and English language abilities. My students, colleagues, and others in the village are teaching me more than I could ever teach them - and I am trying to learn all that I can during my short stay in Nupoh.

On the road again

I arrived in Mae Sot from Chiang Mai last night and began orientation with BVP (Burma Volunteer Program) this morning. The journey to orientation from my guest house included a wobbly bike, rain, and riding on the left side of the road. I feel thankful to be alive.

Though truthfully the ride itself was uneventful, tomorrow is another day that will include a wobbly bike, most likely rain, and definitely riding on the left side of the road. Did I mention the rotary?

There was a chocolate coconut waffle for breakfast, at least. I would have provided a photo, but I had eaten it far too quickly to have had time to think about documenting the deliciousness before it was gone. Even after I had enjoyed it, I was further tempted (or tortured, if you prefer) by the amazing smell of other waffles being prepared as I waited for the program manager and other volunteers to arrive at the designated meeting spot.

My assignment with BVP will lead me on another journey this weekend, south to Nu Po. This is where the real adventure will begin in Thailand. The rest was just a warm-up.

Eating well

I love a country that loves its food, especially when I love it too. Though I suppose that is what makes food enjoyable - because the people making it love it so much that they take the time, put in the effort, and use some creativity to make it worth everyone's while?

Everyone had told me how much I would enjoy Thai cuisine, but I was afraid that after all the hype - I was bound to be disappointed. I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only are the textures and flavors fabulous, but the presentation can be a work of art - as you can see from the photos below.

After thoroughly enjoying every meal, I wonder if I will ever be truly disappointed with a Thai meal? The best part? Because my mouth is so overwhelmingly happy, my stomach is too. There is no need for third or fourth helpings (though seconds are always a must) in order to make up for the lack of interest in the food by my mouth. Hallelujah.

The culinary adventures continue...

Back to the Future

I arrived yesterday in Bangkok, after heading west from New York, finding myself 11 hours into the future. During a stopover in Hong Kong, I had my first incredible view of Asia. The weather was overcast, obscuring the tops of the deep green hills surrounding the airport. As we were touching down, I couldn't believe that I could actually see the enormous statue of Buddha that friends had previously captured in pictures and sent to me during their various trips to Hong Kong over the past year - http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/outlying-giant-buddha.html. There he was, perched on the top of this mountain, slightly veiled by a mist floating around him. Asia could not have planned a better welcome for me.

In Bangkok, I was greeted by a familiar face, a friend from law school here coincidentally volunteering for the same organization that I volunteered with in Tanzania. After the 20+ hour journey, I could not have been more happy to see Sandra waving at me from across the terminal. We headed out of the airport on the public transit system. THERE IS A PUBLIC TRANSIT SYSTEM. This is the first of many things that will amaze me about Asia, as compared with Africa, I am sure.

I ended the night with a great traditional Thai salad, from a street vendor on the side of the road in Bangkok. We watched the cars zooming by, people going about their business - including a vegetable seller advertising his wares via megaphone - from a truck parked behind us, and lazy dogs looking well-fed, but always hungry for more, passing on the street.