Waking up by about 6AM every day (even weekends), I am generally able to play a little Badminton to start off my day, then often I have breakfast on my own, taken at a local tea shop/restaurant. Breakfast is usually some mohinga (noodles in a sauce with green beans, cilantro, crispy soy, onion, and some other ingredients that I have yet to figure out!) or coconut noodles.
Some days I am looking for something sweet, like roti (fried bread with sweet condensed milk and sugar), but in any case, breakfast is always accompanied by some green tea (though it is usually pale brown in color, with a light flavor) or Burmese tea (http://www.thenatureactive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/myanmar-tea-cup.jpg), which is a dark, strong tea usually accompanied by sweet condensed milk and sugar.
Thankfully, I have finally learned (just today) how to ask in Burmese for tea with only evaporated milk and no sugar, so that I can attempt to cut down on my sugar and fat intake. Attempting to exclude sugar and fat here to any degree is a challenge, but most people think that it is particularly strange to drink Burmese tea without both the sweet condensed milk AND sugar - sickeningly sweet in most cases.
Before school started up again, I spent many mornings at the internet shop checking my email and seeing what all of you were up to on Facebook. I have recently been lucky enough to stream NPR news as well, which has been so nice - and something that I really missed while I was in Tanzania.
Now that school has begun again though, I usually can't check email until late morning, or after lunch, because of my 9AM class. Though I will say that having only 2-3 hours in front of the computer a day - or less - has been a welcome change.
If I am not at the internet shop in the late morning, I am grading homework, preparing for class or the weekly quiz for my classes. Lunch is at about 11:30AM or noon. I am so fortunate that a family that my colleague knows from her work with resettled Burmese refugees in Arizona has relatives here who have taken charge of our daily lunches and dinners. They are fabulous cooks and I generally look forward to a variety of delicious Burmese food every day. Vegetables are actually a part of the Burmese diet, which is another welcome change from the carb-laden food available in Tanzania.
Lunch, and sometimes dinner, is also sometimes an impromptu Burmese lesson as the mother speaks no English and her daughter only a bit. Some days are easy, but others are a struggle to understand both meaning and context of questions and answers about the U.S., Burma, or just life in Nupoh.
After lunch is usually spent preparing for class and then showering before my students arrive about 2:45pm for my first afternoon class. Occasionally, this time also includes a 30 minute nap, depending on the heat and how much food my 'host mom' has managed to convince me to eat at lunch.
The afternoon is class time, which ends at 5:30pm. If I haven't visited the internet shop that day, then I may pass by there at this time. Otherwise, I will correct homework or lesson plan for the next day before dinner at about 6:30pm or 7pm.
My other free time in Nupho may be spent having a meal hosted by a student's family or taking walks around the camp visiting students or others that I have met here. Most free time is spent in tea shops though, chatting about what is happening in Nupho, about Burmese or U.S. culture or politics, or maybe commenting on the random American wrestling match on TV in the shop.
All in all, it is a pretty "quiet" life here. Though with animals making noise at all hours; the various places of worship chanting, singing, or calling people to prayer at almost every hour of the day; or just groups of children playing (never quietly) throughout the camp, it is never actually "quiet" in Nupho.
Mainstreet, Nupoh
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Friday, November 19, 2010
Burmese Birthday Party
So, this week started out with an invitation to a birthday party for the younger sister, who was turning 12 years old, of one of my students.
It was at 8am on a Wednesday morning.
Apparently, the Burmese do not have the same time-line for celebrations as people in the West.
There were also about 200 people invited to their two-room bamboo house for breakfast, also unbelievable, but they made it work. Breakfast looks more like lunch in the U.S., spicy noodles with some meat, in sauce. They also had some fruit and pieces of pound cake on the side. People came in shifts, sitting down long enough to eat the large amounts of food being served, have some fruit and other treats offered, and then exiting soon after to continue on with their day.
Unlike a typical birthday party for a 12 year old, the birthday girl was part of the service squad, refilling drinks and bowls of "mohinga" (traditional Burmese breakfast of noodles, some fish, cilantro, and spices) as the guests came and went from the house throughout the morning.
The rest of the party was pretty traditional, with the birthday girl dressed in a party dress, a pretty barrette in her hair, and a birthday cake - though I am not sure if there was any singing and I didn't see any candles.
It was at 8am on a Wednesday morning.
Apparently, the Burmese do not have the same time-line for celebrations as people in the West.
There were also about 200 people invited to their two-room bamboo house for breakfast, also unbelievable, but they made it work. Breakfast looks more like lunch in the U.S., spicy noodles with some meat, in sauce. They also had some fruit and pieces of pound cake on the side. People came in shifts, sitting down long enough to eat the large amounts of food being served, have some fruit and other treats offered, and then exiting soon after to continue on with their day.
Unlike a typical birthday party for a 12 year old, the birthday girl was part of the service squad, refilling drinks and bowls of "mohinga" (traditional Burmese breakfast of noodles, some fish, cilantro, and spices) as the guests came and went from the house throughout the morning.
The rest of the party was pretty traditional, with the birthday girl dressed in a party dress, a pretty barrette in her hair, and a birthday cake - though I am not sure if there was any singing and I didn't see any candles.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
AUNG SAN SUU KYI'S RELEASE
Burmese human rights' leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, was released from house arrest last night about 5:15pm, local time in Burma (Myanmar). http://www.straitstimes.com/BreakingNews/SEAsia/Story/STIStory_603142.html Just after the announcement last night, life seemed to go on here in Nupoh, for the most part. Though there were a few colleagues, students, and other residents who were listening intently to news reports and/or drinking in celebration of the news, most people were going on about their business - eating dinner, playing chess, chatting with friends, or choosing a DVD.
She is scheduled to give a speech to her supporters today at 12pm, local time (12:30AM east coast time).
She is scheduled to give a speech to her supporters today at 12pm, local time (12:30AM east coast time).
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Elections and Nupoh
ELECTIONS IN BURMA
So again I find myself writing all of you late! In my defense, I did have a really quick trip to Mae Sot last weekend that included about 14 hours of travel for a 36 hour stay there. I left just as a reported 20,000 refugees streamed into Mae Sot in the wake of Sunday's elections http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20005. There were clashes between the Burmese army and DKBA (Democratic Karen Buddhist Army), the army of the minority Karen (Kah-rehn) ethnic group.
It seems that most refugees seeking a safe haven in Thailand after the elections on Sunday have returned home http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v5/newsindex.php?id=542337, but questions remain if they will be back. The Burmese government (officially named "Myanmar" by the present military-backed government) claimed an overwhelming victory in the election, saying they had gained approximately 80% of the vote. However, the election was marred by accusations of fraud and coercion, from inside an outside Burma - http://www.todayonline.com/World/EDC101110-0000105/Junta-backed-party-sweeps-Myanmar-election.
More Burma news: http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jp0h9ZI64WoLeW8l5etpeBhN2Y2Q?docId=dfe02e9c36994341bf9e141b48335f35
http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20049
IN A LAND FAR, FAR AWAY....
As for me, I am far away from the conflict, about 7 hours or so south of Mae Sot in the peaceful village of Nupoh. The residents here are preparing for a full moon festival, creating human-sized puppets in paper mache' style. My colleague and I are preparing lesson plans for our classes beginning on Monday and hope to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner with our students on the 25th as well.
The weather has been really great, not quite as cold as some of my first nights here - and not too hot either so far. I can't seem to keep totally clean though. There is dust constantly filling the air, and in the last week or so there has been foul-smelling smoke from the brush being burned for fertilizer by many farmers consistently wafting into our classrooms (and bedrooms) every day and night. It seems that they are taking turns burning so that our noses are rarely given a break from it.
AUNG SAN SUU KYI
Residents are also anxiously awaiting word of Burmese human rights' leader Aung San Suu Kyi's release from house arrest. Her release is supposed to take place today and rumors are swirling as to what is happening and if the ruling junta will actually go through with the release. The latest report as of this posting: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/home/Aung-San-Suu-Kyi-set-for-evening-release-30142181.html
Info on the life of Aung San Suu Kyi: http://nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1991/kyi-bio.html
I have come to Thailand to work with the Burmese at an interesting time in the country's and people's history. I just hope that even a small change will be a positive one for them.
So again I find myself writing all of you late! In my defense, I did have a really quick trip to Mae Sot last weekend that included about 14 hours of travel for a 36 hour stay there. I left just as a reported 20,000 refugees streamed into Mae Sot in the wake of Sunday's elections http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20005. There were clashes between the Burmese army and DKBA (Democratic Karen Buddhist Army), the army of the minority Karen (Kah-rehn) ethnic group.
It seems that most refugees seeking a safe haven in Thailand after the elections on Sunday have returned home http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v5/newsindex.php?id=542337, but questions remain if they will be back. The Burmese government (officially named "Myanmar" by the present military-backed government) claimed an overwhelming victory in the election, saying they had gained approximately 80% of the vote. However, the election was marred by accusations of fraud and coercion, from inside an outside Burma - http://www.todayonline.com/World/EDC101110-0000105/Junta-backed-party-sweeps-Myanmar-election.
More Burma news: http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jp0h9ZI64WoLeW8l5etpeBhN2Y2Q?docId=dfe02e9c36994341bf9e141b48335f35
http://www.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=20049
IN A LAND FAR, FAR AWAY....
As for me, I am far away from the conflict, about 7 hours or so south of Mae Sot in the peaceful village of Nupoh. The residents here are preparing for a full moon festival, creating human-sized puppets in paper mache' style. My colleague and I are preparing lesson plans for our classes beginning on Monday and hope to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner with our students on the 25th as well.
The weather has been really great, not quite as cold as some of my first nights here - and not too hot either so far. I can't seem to keep totally clean though. There is dust constantly filling the air, and in the last week or so there has been foul-smelling smoke from the brush being burned for fertilizer by many farmers consistently wafting into our classrooms (and bedrooms) every day and night. It seems that they are taking turns burning so that our noses are rarely given a break from it.
AUNG SAN SUU KYI
Residents are also anxiously awaiting word of Burmese human rights' leader Aung San Suu Kyi's release from house arrest. Her release is supposed to take place today and rumors are swirling as to what is happening and if the ruling junta will actually go through with the release. The latest report as of this posting: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/home/Aung-San-Suu-Kyi-set-for-evening-release-30142181.html
Info on the life of Aung San Suu Kyi: http://nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1991/kyi-bio.html
I have come to Thailand to work with the Burmese at an interesting time in the country's and people's history. I just hope that even a small change will be a positive one for them.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
First week in Nupoh
So, I have finished my first week in Nupoh camp, several hours south of Mae Sot, and can't believe that I have been in Thailand three weeks already. Nupoh is a refugee camp, where I will be teaching English to Burmese asylum seekers and refugees until mid-January. It is an adorable little village, very safe and very peaceful. I had thought that my last post was just a week ago, but then I realized that it is already October 31st (thanks for the reminder Glynn!). Sorry for the delay, but it has been a busy few weeks.
Orientation began on October 18th and I left for Nupoh on the 23rd, arriving just in time for the festival of lights (http://www.dpsmap.com/festival/october.htm) in the camp. It was a lovely celebration, that lit up the night with colored lampshades, in varying sizes and shapes, and rows of candles along various pathways in the camp.
The Burmese people here have welcomed me with open arms and have already taught me so much about the culture and history of Burma (now officially called "Myanmar" by the government there). I am trying to learn some of the Burmese language as well, but it is rather difficult when so many people here speak English so well - and those that don't are anxious to learn it.
The houses here are made of dried bamboo, with squat toilets and bucket showers. It is like a mini Peace Corps experience, only there is electricity (sometimes) and internet access - something that was barely invented when I arrived in Mali in 1999. I do have a cell phone this time around as well, though there is no cell service in the camp. Luckily there are many internet shops in Nupoh, and the access is pretty fast considering the remoteness of the village. It is not as convenient as having internet in my room, but having it at all is quite a luxury, considering the circumstances.
Burma, like many other countries outside the U.S., is composed of people of varying ethnic backgrounds who speak a variety of local languages (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Burma). Burmese (Bamar people, who are the majority) is the main language of Burma, but many other languages are spoken among the people there as well. Natives of Burma are generally called Burmese, but the term "Burmese" in the camp generally refers to Burmese speaking people, not the minority ethnic groups, which include Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn), Karenni, Chin, Shin, Mon, and others. These groups speak local languages, generally not spoken by the larger Burmese majority, though many of these groups also speak Burmese.
Nupoh camp is mainly composed of Karen (pronounced Keh-rehn) people (http://www.friendsofthekaren.org/), with some Bamar (or Burmese people), Chin, Mon, and others comprising a small minority in the camp. I am teaching English at a school in the minority Burmese section of the camp, where the main religion is Buddhism. The majority of the Karen people in the camp are Christian, predominantly Baptist.
My students range in age from about 13 years to around 50 years old. It is an interesting mix of age levels, ethnic backgrounds, and English language abilities. My students, colleagues, and others in the village are teaching me more than I could ever teach them - and I am trying to learn all that I can during my short stay in Nupoh.
Orientation began on October 18th and I left for Nupoh on the 23rd, arriving just in time for the festival of lights (http://www.dpsmap.com/festival/october.htm) in the camp. It was a lovely celebration, that lit up the night with colored lampshades, in varying sizes and shapes, and rows of candles along various pathways in the camp.
The Burmese people here have welcomed me with open arms and have already taught me so much about the culture and history of Burma (now officially called "Myanmar" by the government there). I am trying to learn some of the Burmese language as well, but it is rather difficult when so many people here speak English so well - and those that don't are anxious to learn it.
The houses here are made of dried bamboo, with squat toilets and bucket showers. It is like a mini Peace Corps experience, only there is electricity (sometimes) and internet access - something that was barely invented when I arrived in Mali in 1999. I do have a cell phone this time around as well, though there is no cell service in the camp. Luckily there are many internet shops in Nupoh, and the access is pretty fast considering the remoteness of the village. It is not as convenient as having internet in my room, but having it at all is quite a luxury, considering the circumstances.
Burma, like many other countries outside the U.S., is composed of people of varying ethnic backgrounds who speak a variety of local languages (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographics_of_Burma). Burmese (Bamar people, who are the majority) is the main language of Burma, but many other languages are spoken among the people there as well. Natives of Burma are generally called Burmese, but the term "Burmese" in the camp generally refers to Burmese speaking people, not the minority ethnic groups, which include Karen (pronounced Kah-rehn), Karenni, Chin, Shin, Mon, and others. These groups speak local languages, generally not spoken by the larger Burmese majority, though many of these groups also speak Burmese.
Nupoh camp is mainly composed of Karen (pronounced Keh-rehn) people (http://www.friendsofthekaren.org/), with some Bamar (or Burmese people), Chin, Mon, and others comprising a small minority in the camp. I am teaching English at a school in the minority Burmese section of the camp, where the main religion is Buddhism. The majority of the Karen people in the camp are Christian, predominantly Baptist.
My students range in age from about 13 years to around 50 years old. It is an interesting mix of age levels, ethnic backgrounds, and English language abilities. My students, colleagues, and others in the village are teaching me more than I could ever teach them - and I am trying to learn all that I can during my short stay in Nupoh.
Monday, October 18, 2010
On the road again
I arrived in Mae Sot from Chiang Mai last night and began orientation with BVP (Burma Volunteer Program) this morning. The journey to orientation from my guest house included a wobbly bike, rain, and riding on the left side of the road. I feel thankful to be alive.
Though truthfully the ride itself was uneventful, tomorrow is another day that will include a wobbly bike, most likely rain, and definitely riding on the left side of the road. Did I mention the rotary?
There was a chocolate coconut waffle for breakfast, at least. I would have provided a photo, but I had eaten it far too quickly to have had time to think about documenting the deliciousness before it was gone. Even after I had enjoyed it, I was further tempted (or tortured, if you prefer) by the amazing smell of other waffles being prepared as I waited for the program manager and other volunteers to arrive at the designated meeting spot.
My assignment with BVP will lead me on another journey this weekend, south to Nu Po. This is where the real adventure will begin in Thailand. The rest was just a warm-up.
Though truthfully the ride itself was uneventful, tomorrow is another day that will include a wobbly bike, most likely rain, and definitely riding on the left side of the road. Did I mention the rotary?
There was a chocolate coconut waffle for breakfast, at least. I would have provided a photo, but I had eaten it far too quickly to have had time to think about documenting the deliciousness before it was gone. Even after I had enjoyed it, I was further tempted (or tortured, if you prefer) by the amazing smell of other waffles being prepared as I waited for the program manager and other volunteers to arrive at the designated meeting spot.
My assignment with BVP will lead me on another journey this weekend, south to Nu Po. This is where the real adventure will begin in Thailand. The rest was just a warm-up.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Eating well
I love a country that loves its food, especially when I love it too. Though I suppose that is what makes food enjoyable - because the people making it love it so much that they take the time, put in the effort, and use some creativity to make it worth everyone's while?
Everyone had told me how much I would enjoy Thai cuisine, but I was afraid that after all the hype - I was bound to be disappointed. I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only are the textures and flavors fabulous, but the presentation can be a work of art - as you can see from the photos below.
After thoroughly enjoying every meal, I wonder if I will ever be truly disappointed with a Thai meal? The best part? Because my mouth is so overwhelmingly happy, my stomach is too. There is no need for third or fourth helpings (though seconds are always a must) in order to make up for the lack of interest in the food by my mouth. Hallelujah.
The culinary adventures continue...
Everyone had told me how much I would enjoy Thai cuisine, but I was afraid that after all the hype - I was bound to be disappointed. I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only are the textures and flavors fabulous, but the presentation can be a work of art - as you can see from the photos below.
After thoroughly enjoying every meal, I wonder if I will ever be truly disappointed with a Thai meal? The best part? Because my mouth is so overwhelmingly happy, my stomach is too. There is no need for third or fourth helpings (though seconds are always a must) in order to make up for the lack of interest in the food by my mouth. Hallelujah.
The culinary adventures continue...
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